Outside Help
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'Traditional’
Med Community
Allopath
Dermatologists
Internal Organs
Mental Health
Psychotherapists
Surgical Procedures
External Creams
Peeling Agents
Topical Drying
Topical Antibiotics
Hydrocortisone
Drug Therapies
Oral Antibiotics
Hormones, etc.
Mood Alteration
'Non Traditional'
‘Alternative’?
The Leg Bone’s
Massage
Acupressurist
Reflexologist
Colonics
Hypnotherapist
Naturopath (N.D.)
Homeopath
Chiropractor
O.M.D.
Ayurved
Orthomolecular
Nutritionist
Nutrition
Skin Superfoods
Vitamins
Supplements:
Glandular Therapy
Herbs and Teas
Amino Acids
Specific Systems
Exercise
Mood Alteration
Detoxification
Deleting Dairy
Water
Miracle Cures
Non-Comedogenic
Cleansers
Scrubs
Astringents
Moisturizer
Masks
Raw Egg Yolk
Night Masks
AHAs
Treatments
Make-up
Long Names
Bases
Emollients
Texturers
Mr. Bubble!
Colorants
Antibacterials
Sunscreens
Preservatives
Vitamins
Botanicals
Other Additives
What Else?
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OUTSIDE HELP: MIRACLE CURES
What Do All of Those Long Names Mean? Emollients and Emulsifiers
Emulsifiers are used when ingredients which would not normally be mixed together need to be blended. They help to homogenize a product. Emollients are the substances that provide a products moisture.
- Lanolin or acetylated lanolin is a yellow, semi-solid, fatty secretion from sheep’s wool used as an emulsifier. It is very similar in its chemical structure to human skin oil. It is used as an emollient and gives that ‘velvety’ feeling to creams and moisturizers. It is comedogenic and can potentially cause contact dermatitis. Laneth-10 is a lanolin alcohol.
- Essential fatty acids are a basic component of skin. They act to reduce scaly skin surface and restore smoothness. In cosmetics they are produced from sources such as sunflower, borage, evening primrose and other plant oils. They can also be derived from animal fats. Myristic acid is a solid organic acid occurring naturally in butter acids. Arachidyl proprionate or Arachadonic acid are essential fatty acids which sometimes comes from peanuts. Linoleic acid and linolenic acid are other essential fatty acids which help to improve skin texture.
- Isopropyl Myristate or dry oil of IPM is a greaseless derivitive of myristic acid which helps to reduce an oily feeling in some cosmetics. This ingredient is comedogenic.
- Fatty acids are a blend of two or more essential fatty acids or fatty alcohol materials and have many uses and are found everywhere in cosmetics. They have emollient and lubricating qualities and usually blend well with other ingredients making them also excellent emulsifiers. Types of fatty acids include: cetyl alcohol, caprylic acid, lauric acid (laurle), palmitic acid, and stearic acid. Capric or Caprylic Triglicerides are very similar to natural skin oils and are used in many creams and lotions.
- The name cetyl alcohol (also cetearyl or ceteraeth) is actually misleading, because it consists of white to yellow flakes derived from coconut oil. It is classified as a fatty acid and is used as an emollient and emulsifier. Cocamide DEA or MEA and cocamidopropyl betaine are other cleansing and conditioning ingredients also derived from coconut fatty acids. Ceteareth is another emulsifyer, lubricant and emollient derived from coconut oil.
- Stearic acid is a common waxy emulsifier typically made from coconut or palm kernel oil, but can also be sourced from animal fats. Stearic acid is a potential allergen. It is frequently combined with other ingredients such as glycerin (glyceryl stearate) or potassium to make soap foamy or with other other related emulsifiers.
- Cetyl lactate is a synthetic fatty acid that is used as an emollient
- Peg or Polyethylene Glycol is an organic alcohol which binds itself to oily substances to increase their water solubility. Peg-8 stearate (stearic acid-coconut/palm source) acts as a humectant and lubricant.
- Panthenol is another strong humectant which helps bind moisture to the skin. When it enters the skin it converts to vitamin b-5 or pantothenic acid and works to aid healing.
- Other miscellaneous emulsifiers and emollients include: Dextrine - a starchy substance that also thickens and helps to retain moisture in a product; Lecithin - an emulsifier, antioxidant, stabilizer, that also helps to restore texture to the skin’s surface; Octyldodecanol - an organic emollient; and Octyl Palmitate - a lubricant from palm kernel oil.
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